C California Style

Inside Commissary.
The greenhouse-inspired Commissary was designed by landscape architect Sean Knibb.
The eight-seat bar.
Choi’s take on asparagus.
A bourbon-based Blueberry cocktail.
Guests pick dishes such as corn from a picture-based menu.

Glass Act

by C California Style

The sky’s the limit for chef Roy Choi with the arrival of Commissary on the roof of Koreatown’s The Line Hotel.

“I had a dream about a tennis club where everybody was twerking,” explains chef Roy Choi of the genesis of Commissary, his restaurant on the rooftop of Koreatown’s The Line Hotel, and the latest gem in the crown of his culinary empire. A pioneer of the food-truck movement with his iconic Korean-taco-slinging Kogi, Choi is no stranger to inventive dining concepts. Commissary breaks new ground as the L.A. native’s first produce-centric establishment, featuring riffs on fresh ingredients from corn to bok choy, with a few meat- and fish-based dishes (think veal, black bass) thrown in for good measure. “It makes plant-based food fun and approachable,” says Choi, who is also the driving force behind local restaurants including A-Frame, Sunny Spot and The Line Hotel’s debut eatery, Pot. Mixologist Matthew Biancaniello contributes his talents, with fruit-and-veggie-driven cocktails to complement the seasonal fare, including the popular Pimp’s Cup—his version of a Pimm’s Cup. “Commissary is in a greenhouse next to a pool with pingpong tables and lounge chairs on a mezzanine above Wilshire Boulevard,” says Choi, who stars in CNN’s L.A.-based Web series, “Street Food With Roy Choi.” “It just makes you feel good.” 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213-368-3030; eatatpot.com.

Written and edited by Lesley McKenzie.
PHOTOS: Audrey Ma.