C California Style

PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
CHAD ROBERTSON baking bread. PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
L.A.’s COMMUNE DESIGN and S.F. architect CHARLES HEMMINGER envisioned the space. PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
HEATH CERAMICS bowls. PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
The pastry case. PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
A sample of LIZ PRUEITT’s pastries. PHOTO: Angie Silvy.
Eggplant, stracciatella and Calabrian chilies sandwich.PHOTO: Angie Silvy.

Rise and Shine

by C California Style

Chad Robertson and Liz Prueitt make a case for baked goods all day long at the Mission’s long-awaited Tartine Manufactory.

“For three years I’ve been saying, ‘Where can I go in this city to get a bowl of broth, some beans and a hunk of fresh bread?’” says Chad Robertson, flour guru of San Francisco’s iconic Mission bakery, Tartine. The wait is over with this summer’s opening of Tartine Manufactory, the latest pilgrimage site for artisanal bread enthusiasts, from Robertson and his partner in pastry and life, Liz Prueitt.

Housed within Heath Ceramics’ Mission District factory, Tartine Manufactory brings Prueitt’s internationally renowned pastries and Robertson’s coveted loaves together with breakfast, lunch, coffee, wine and eventually dinner under one industrial roof. Bulbous white Noguchi lanterns hang from the ceiling, giving the restaurant a dash of whimsy that balances the serious nature of its culinary enterprise, while stacks of Heath dishes stand at attention on shelves tiled in neutral hues.

There are hearty sandwiches, a counter dedicated to Coffee Manufactory run by java expert Chris Jordan, and a marble wine bar where more than half of the list showcases vintners with a sustainable approach to winemaking, from Healdsburg’s Ryme to Napa Valley’s Keep Wines. Sweet and savory goods line the pastry case, from a smoked mozzarella, pepperoni and chive biscuit to a pistachio and almond tea cake—warming creations that feel like what you’d find in the couple’s home kitchen.

There’s a sense of intimacy, as guests intermingle with cooks and baristas, that was engineered into the ethos of the space. “All of these things were intentional,” says Robertson. “But they all derive from the original bakery, where it was accidental.”

At the heart of the Manufactory is the Tesla of bread ovens, a central inferno that enables Robertson’s team to bake pastries and bread in a single spot. And coming soon is pizza, as well as Prueitt’s in-house Cookies & Cream soft-serve ice cream shop.

These are the foods that Robertson and Prueitt want to eat all day, every day. And they’re not alone: “We were totally surprised [at the lines]—it’s kind of crazy,” says Robertson. He and Prueitt were expecting a few hundred customers on day one; 1,000 showed up instead. 595 Alabama St., S.F., 415-487-2600; tartinemanufactory.com. • FRANCESCA GILBERTI BURKE

Edited by Lesley McKenzie.