C California Style

A Chef for All Seasons

by C California Style

Chef Ron Siegel’s career is a veritable highlights reel of San Francisco restaurants:

MADCAP’s shima aji sashimi.

Michael Mina, the Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton, Masa’s, Charles Nob Hill—he’s run them all, not to mention a stint as opening sous chef at The French Laundry.

In August, Siegel finally opened a place of his own called Madcap, in San Anselmo. “The approach and technique are not different,” Siegel says, comparing the menu at the casual Madcap to his previous tony gigs. “But some of the ingredients are. It’s a special, eccentric restaurant.”

Here, Siegel focuses on produce and what he considers the Bay Area’s “40 seasons,” as well as his signature nuanced, Japanese cooking style. A sashimi comprises translucent shima aji (striped jack mackerel) with marinated seaweed, a tangy puree of umeboshi plum, shaved radish, sweet melon and shiso salt. Rabbit tortelloni are filled with miso-braised meat, chanterelles and Crescenza cheese, and garnished with leeks and Parmesan foam. Even simple corn soup is elevated with a pine nut crumble. Order à la carte, or settle in for the eight-course tasting menu ($80). 198 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo, 415-453-9898; madcapmarin.com.

Written by Michalene Busico.
Photography by JOHN STOREY.

 

This article originally appeared in the November 2017 issue of C Magazine.