C California Style

Doctor’s Orders

by intern

Red Medicine’s elegant new menu trades bánh mì for botany.

Red Medicine didn’t win any points for refusing to seat the former L.A. Times food critic upon opening.Regardless, the buzzing Beverly Hills spot has been swarming with style-setters and gourmets for three years now. What began with a heady Southeast Asian menu—interpreted with unusual herbs and delicate flowers—has gradually evolved into Jordan Kahn’s studio of ephemeral creation. Alongside the avant-garde chef, managing partner Noah Ellis has curated wines with laser acidity and of-the-moment cocktails to match (#89 combines vintage bourbon, sweet vermouth, cherry heering and orange juice). However inspired, the days of bánh mì were numbered. Today, a fresh lineup reflects Kahn’s modern proclivities—a style dubbed the “new naturalism.” The artistry on each plate is a miniature world to explore. Sea urchin, Kei apple, almond milk and parsnip alchemize as wintry sheets of ice. Crust resembles an exaggerated Magritte cloud. Welcome to the surreal—realized. 8400 Wilshire Blvd., B.H., 323-651-5500; redmedicinela.com

Written and edited by Alison Clare Steingold