C California Style

The Northern Coast fish, featuring grilled abalone, coastal greens and dry-aged lamb.

Fresh Canvas

by C California Style

S.F.’s Avery Restaurant Takes Fillmore

San Francisco pop-ups have a way of becoming major restaurants—think Saison and Lazy Bear—and the next to make the leap is Avery, a Japanese-inflected French restaurant in the Fillmore District. Chef Rodney Wages (whose starry pedigree includes Saison and Benu) has transformed his pop-up, RTB Fillmore, into Avery, an ambitious eatery with French hip-hop on the sound system, a wine list by Daniel Bromberg built around sake, and tables set only with chopsticks and spoons. “I hate forks,” Wages declares. “They’re a very violent thing.”

Caviar is served by the bump: a third of an ounce spooned directly on the diner’s fist and embellished with a dab of crème fraîche. Each multicourse tasting menu ($89 to $289) is filled with artfully composed dishes such as tortellini en brodo, where liquid-filled pasta float in an umami-rich broth bobbing with cubes of foie gras. The restaurant is named for artist Milton Avery and, yes, that is one of his works in the private dining room. 1552 Fillmore St., S.F., 415-817-1187; averysf.com.

Photography courtesy of AVERY.