Coi’s Quest for Gastronomic Greatness
Shortly before Erik Anderson stepped into the kitchen at Coi, it was awarded three Michelin stars—a pinnacle for the San Francisco restaurant, and a towering challenge for the new chef. “Here’s the thing,” Anderson says, without a trace of nerves. “Holding on to them matters a lot. I wouldn’t be out here if it didn’t.”
Anderson, who had been working in Minneapolis after making a name for himself at The Catbird Seat in Nashville, acclimated to the Bay Area by cooking alongside Coi’s founding chef, Daniel Patterson, and in January he unveiled the new menu: a nine-course degustation of gorgeous, modern French cuisine ($250). Compared with Coi’s previous menus, Anderson spotlights meat more than vegetables, with intricate dishes such as Tourte, a savory tart filled with sweetbreads, foie gras and duck embellished with Armagnac cream and pureed black truffle.
“This is one of the greatest parts of the country to cook in,” Anderson says, pointing out that there are more three-star restaurants in the Bay Area than in New York. Will Coi continue to be one of them? “I don’t want to obsess,” he says. “But I’m hopeful.” 373 Broadway, S.F., 415-393-9000; coirestaurant.com
Written by MICHALENE BUSICO.
Photography by PATRICK WONG.