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C California Style

Malibu Farm Pier Cafe will be open for six months. PHOTO: Martin Lof.

Sea Change

by C California Style

Malibu’s resident tastemaker makes waves with a new outpost on the Pier.

At Helene Henderson’s hillside homestead, chickens roam freely, the kale grows without effort and the goats are eager for another nibble. Over the past two years, the residence’s al fresco dinner series, Malibu Farm, has helped to distinguish the neighborhood’s growing artisanal foods movement—all from its sprawling backyard. But as fall commenced, the Swedish gardener, chef and cookbook author flew the coop and landed on a historic pier. Working with designer Vanessa Alexander, Henderson has rehabbed the old Ruby’s Shake Shack for a six-month restaurant residency. Now a meeting place for breakfast and lunch, the Pier Cafe serves casual fare—quinoa bowls kissed with maple, veggie-dense chopped salads—using area produce from boutique purveyors such as One Gun Ranch and Malibu Honey. The tableau comes together with giant picture windows and farmhouse benches draped in Icelandic sheepskin. Nothing beats sitting over the water with a giant plate of multigrain pancakes and an almond milk latte, looking out to a blue expanse. 23000 P.C.H., Malibu; malibu-farm.com/pier-cafe.

Written and edited by Alison Clare Steingold