C California Style

Plateau beaded gloves, saddle by California Saddle Co., California-style spurs and Navajo concha belts (c. 1890-1930) at CAYUSE WESTERN AMERICANA. PHOTO: Cameron Nielson.
The view from the AMANGANI pool. PHOTO: courtesy of aman.
LISA EISNER. PHOTO: getty images/pascal le segretain.
Eisner and her sister with Miss Wyoming at OLD FAITHFUL. PHOTO: courtesy of lisa eisner.
Welcome sign at the top of Teton Pass.
Image from Eisner’s book RODEO GIRL. PHOTO: courtesy of lisa eisner.
MILLION DOLLAR COWBOY BAR in Jackson Hole. PHOTO: istock.com/Jerry Moorman.

Country Strong

by C California Style

Wyoming native Lisa Eisner returns to her western roots and maps the best pit stops along the way.

“You can’t get more beauty! The minute you land under the Grand Tetons it just takes your breath away,” says Lisa Eisner, an L.A.-based photographer, jewelry designer, eclectic collector and connector, who grew up in Wyoming. “It’s not just about the town of Jackson Hole,” she says of the locale where her family vacationed in her youth. “It’s also the surrounding areas that make it so ideal: Yellowstone, Dubois and Cody—they’re all picture-perfect small Western towns.” Here, Eisner’s picks for doing Jackson Hole like a native.

EAT AND DRINK Start your day with a Southern-style brunch (fried chicken and waffles, grits and eggs) at Cafe Genevieve (genevievejh.com). • A staple for more than 20 years, Snake River Grill (snakerivergrill.com) is a fine-dining go-to for New American cuisine, from the buffalo steak to the broiled Idaho trout. • Inside Grand Teton National Park, book Dornan’s (dornans.com) Chuckwagon restaurant for dinner overlooking the Snake River.  Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (milliondollarcowboybar.com) “has to be one of the most perfect Western bars in the world,” says Eisner. Open since 1937, the bar’s seats are saddles, the wood is knobbled pine, and taxidermied animals add to the authentic atmosphere. Don’t forget your boots—there’s swing dancing, six nights a week.

SHOP Fighting Bear Antiques (fightingbear.com)—“for Thomas Molesworth furniture, Western paintings, Native American Indian beadwork, and rugs,” says Eisner. • “I have bought so many wonderful things from Cayuse Western Americana (cayusewa.com)—Western suits, paintings, Native American Indian jewelry. The owner, Mary Schmitt, has a great eye.”

STAY Perched on a hilltop, the Amangani resort (aman.com) has it all with sprawling views, from casual and finer dining to an incredible pool and spa. • Eco-resort Jenny Lake Lodge (gtlc.com) is at the foot of the Teton Range. “Built in the 1930s, the lodge has rustic log cabins and a fancy dining experience; it’s now almost impossible to book a stay a year in advance.” If you can’t snag a room, “you can at least hike around Jenny Lake and check out the scenery.” • Later this year, the Caldera House (calderahouse.com) will open its doors—a members-only hotel/condo property designed by L.A.’s own Commune, complete with restaurant and après-ski lounge.

CAN’T MISS “I got married in the Chapel of the Transfiguration (stjohnsjackson.diowy.org). It’s a small cabin built in 1925 in the Grand Teton National Park. The pews are cut logs and the back wall is a big picture window that looks at the Tetons. It’s a Ralph Lauren dream!” • From fly-fishing to float trips and hiking, there’s no shortage of things on and around the beautiful, curvy Snake River (“they don’t call it that for nothing”). Don’t be surprised to see wolves, moose and bears. If you’re lucky, a bald eagle might cruise over you. •

Edited by Jenny Murray.