Plus Saint Laurent Tackles Technicolor and Re/Done revitalizes vintage on Melrose
Words by ELIZABETH VARNELL
Ultra-graphic designs and playful colors arrive at Saint Laurent Rive Droite
The bold colors and whimsical shapes that signified the Memphis group’s departure from minimalism in the 1980s is top-of-mind at Saint Laurent for creative director Anthony Vaccarello. He’s gathered key pieces created by the 40-year-old Italian design and architecture group including founder Ettore Sottsass’s Carlton room divider and Masanori Umeda’s Ring bed plus home goods, ceramics, lamps, textiles and a selection of rare books documenting the group’s eclectic look in an exhibition running through June 23 at the French house’s Rive Droite boutique in Los Angeles. Additionally, Vaccarello’s new capsule of multicolored dresses, shirts, hoodies and sneakers — inspired by asymmetrically shaped designs and other key Memphis tenants — is an updated twist on the postmodern movement. 469 Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-271-4110.
Hunsa G’s graphic resurgence
Given the current mood for uplifting color and all things Memphis, it seems fitting that London-based sustainable swimwear brand Hunza G’s signature color-block designs are also having a moment. Rihanna, Hailey Bieber, and Adwoa Aboah have all worn the label revived by Georgiana Huddart and original Hunza founder Peter Meadows. Initially launched in 1984, the line is known for its unique crinkle-stretch fabrics that immediately bring to mind the dress worn by Julia Roberts in the opening scenes of Pretty Woman. The new Majorelle collection of jewel-toned one and two-piece swimsuits are crafted from uniquely sculpting seersucker fabric, knitted at a mill in England’s Midlands and dyed, processed and dried before being cut and sewn into one-size bikinis and one-pieces at Hunza G’s Central London studio. Headbands and scrunchies made from small pieces of excess fabric round out the company’s waste-reduction efforts and pair perfectly with its curve-hugging silhouettes.
Fendi’s new twist on a classic
As summer approaches, Fendi is tapping New York-based visual artist Sarah Coleman to spin its FF logo in a dizzyingly fresh direction for a new sun-dappled capsule collection. Coleman put the instantly-recognizable FF logo pattern through a ’70s psychedelic filter resulting in wavy yellow or blue Vertigo patterns across the Peekaboo bag, Baguette 1997, Bauletto mini and even a beach-ready Mini Sunshine Shopper in straw. Additionally, Coleman designed a Fisheye interpretation of the logo for bags and a Peekaboo ISeeU that glows in the dark. Finally, the lava lamp has met its match. Transformable and rugged women’s and men’s ready-to-wear collections also incorporate the new Vertigo pattern on bodysuits, bikinis, trench coats, bowling shirts, Bermuda shorts, fisherman’s vests and summer suits. Sneakers and trekking sandals round out the collection, as do a tent and backpack made in collaboration with outdoor outfitter Ferrino, a bento box created with Alessi and a campsite-ready vintage Polaroid 636. Snap!
Denim to dye for at Ron Herman
Abstract colors and shapes pioneered by such innovators as Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and Juan Miro inspire the intricate dye patterns Arron Mendoza devised for his latest project, a Pride capsule of vintage Levi’s hand-dyed denim pants and jackets for Ron Herman benefiting Los Angeles LGBT Center. Herman tapped the L.A.-based textile artist and designer to draw on such traditional techniques as batik, shibori and even ice dying for the upcycled collection with the Pride rainbow at its core. “Pairing vintage with this new wave of tie-dye aesthetic has been a revolution,” says Mendoza who also owns L.A.G. Vintage. He also cites Halston’s asymmetrical pieces as influential, particularly with pairs of denim in which dye is limited to one leg. It’s a look that gives the Ron Herman x Arron Mendoza pants a before-and-after feel. “One leg is in the past and another is in the future,” he explains. 8100 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323-651-4129.
Re/Done’s newest Case Study
Seven years after launching vintage Levi’s reconstructed into modern fits, Re/Done founders Sean Barron and Jamie Mazur have a brick-and-mortar Melrose Avenue flagship for their trove of denim, original designs, books, jewelry, sunglasses and other one-of marketplace finds. Hans Wegner Ox chairs, a George Nelson credenza and an Eames surfboard coffee table covered in volumes sourced from Alias Books East sit atop black flagstone floors meant to evoke John Lautner houses. T-shirts, tanks and thermals from Re/Done’s ongoing Hanes collaboration hang beside upcycled patch sweaters and spring collection denim to be paired with the line’s clogs, boots, trainers or sustainable skate shoes. RetroSpecs shades and Brit Eaton-sourced denim sit below Warhols, and each visit yields a new array of flea market finds in addition to jeans that actually fit — and Doris Day parking. 8751 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213-392-0764.
Gucci eyewear doubles down on glam
The exaggerated volumes and bold shapes of Gucci’s latest Hollywood Forever collection of sunglasses conjure the brightest of futures for those clad in the retro lenses. Hand-applied glittering crystals cover acetate and metal frames alike, cat-eye silhouettes get vivid sharp corners and heart-shaped lenses are — naturally — pink. Photographer and director Harmony Korine shot the vintage-inspired collection indoors, with the specs worn amid bubble baths, begging the question: When UV-blockers are all aglitter, why limit them to poolside lounging?
Kaia Gerber caps Celine’s St. Tropez capsule
Is there any better way to convey low-key nonchalance than the baseball cap? Celine artistic director Hedi Slimane’s St. Tropez capsule, shot with L.A. native Kaia Gerber, embraces the ubiquitous cotton topper paired with acetate cat-eye shades and high-waisted jeans as the post-quarantine look of summer (a nod to the model’s trademark riff on the A League of Their Own-worthy accessory). Comfort is key in the collection’s cotton-and-cashmere hoodies, striped marinières and matte jersey bikinis. Raffia Tambour bags, woven striped beach foutas and chunky gladiator sandals round out the laidback street-ready looks.
Ralph Lauren takes on Dodger blue
As ballparks are roaring back to life across the country with baseball season underway, Ralph Lauren’s new capsule collection pays homage to America’s favorite pastime. In partnership with Major League Baseball, his first drop includes Dodgers Polo shirts, satin jackets and sweatshirts plus New Era caps in team colors and a range of sizes meant to fit everyone from T-ballers to World Series winners. The Bronx-born designer and lifelong Yankee fan is spreading the love beyond New York with reimagined gear for L.A. fans celebrating infielder Max Muncey’s recent 100th career home run, plus looks for Cubs and Cardinals devotees with additional team designs — including iterations for Red Sox fans — to follow.
Louis Vuitton and Alex Israel make new waves
The thrill of an open coastline where lapping waves lull beachgoers into a summertime trance inspired the latest addition to Louis Vuitton’s Cologne Perfumes collection. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud created the new scent, On the Beach, with bright top notes of Japanese Yuzu followed by sun-drenched neroli and sandy aromatic herbs including thyme, rosemary, pink pepper and cloves. This addition rounds out a collection of West Coast escape-ready fragrances including Sun Song, Cactus Garden, Afternoon Swim and California Dream, with visuals created in partnership with L.A.-based multimedia artist Alex Israel. Each perfume is paired with one of Israel’s signature iridescent views of the L.A. landscape, the panels or “Flats” he creates — named for false walls built as backdrops on movie sets. On the Beach’s vibrant red and orange hues with a dash of blue — a combination that enlivens coastal summer sunsets — are also splashed across a travel case, fragrance trunk and that endless summer emblem: a surfboard.
June 9, 2021
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