The Couleur Vivante collection is the house’s first foray into radiantly colored gemstones
Words by ELIZABETH VARNELL
Prada’s third fine jewelry collection, Couleur Vivante, is the first by the house’s co–creative directors, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, to embrace a riot of colored gemstones. There are amethysts, aquamarines, and oro-verde peridot designs plus madeira citrine and pink morganite in unexpected combinations fashioned into drop earrings or solitaire rings. Contrasting hues are combined in line bracelets and rivière necklaces, and an eye-catching asymmetry and unexpected proportions reigns. The triangle, an emblem of the Italian house since the days of its founder, emerges throughout the collection. Each stone is selected for its color and vibrance and delicately set to appear as though it’s floating around the wearer’s face, neck, or hands.
Just as the house reexamines textiles, silhouettes, and patterns to create ready-to-wear, the baubles explore alternate perspectives, developing a new vocabulary of color and shape. Fine jewelry collections launched in 2022, using only 100 percent certified recycled gold, a move reflected Prada’s shift in recent years to Re-Nylon recycled fabric. Each design in the new launch continues to be recorded on the Aura Consortium blockchain, and stones are traceable from initial rough form to the cut-and-polished results with accompanying grading certificates from gemologists. The provenance of the gems is transparent, a truly modern innovation, and the jewelry’s bold colors and unexpected shapes are a timely addition to the forward-leaning line.
September 19, 2025
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