Plus Happy 70th Birthday to Gucci Horsebits and Hermès pops up in Costa Mesa
Words by MAX BERLINGER, ELIZABETH VARNELL, KELLY ATTERTON
Hooray Horsebit
Long before Tom Ford or Alessandro Michele got into the footwear game, GUCCI had the horsebit loafer. And although the word iconic is bandied about too frequently in the fashion industry, in this case it’s apt for the elegant slip-on shoe with its equestrian-inspired metal detailing that looks both trendy and timeless. This year the beloved shoe turns 70 years old — happy birthday; you look great! — and to celebrate, the brand is unveiling a capsule of five styles that playfully riff on the recognizable designs, including a square-toed model, called the Zoid; the Jordaan, which has flashy gold tassels; and the Kild style, with the horsebit wrapped in sumptuous leather. For a septuagenarian, the loafer looks as fresh as ever, and this collection proves it has plenty of room to grow. gucci.com. M.B.
Style Station
Los Angeles–based and -made brand YONY has relocated to the buzzy Platform shopping center enter in Culver City. The label, founded by Johnny Schwartz in 2020, is known for its smart, modern take on definitive menswear styles of the 1950s — think piped camp-collar button-ups, varsity jackets, boxy harrington zip-ups, and easy straight-leg corduroy pants. Schwartz is a stickler for details, apparent in the fine-tuned updates he imparts into the fits and fabrics, and has found an audience with style-savvy Angelenos like Dwyane Wade and Justin Bieber. The new shop, designed by Studio Ralph, channels that same midcentury-meets-modern vibe, perfect for lingering customers — and we predict there will be many. yony.com. M.B.
Ranch Dressing
Designer Spencer Phipps was born and raised in Northern California, studied fashion at New York’s Parsons University, and worked for the brands Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten in New York and Antwerp, respectively. But last year, the tattooed and bearded designer returned home to the Golden State. The change of scenery inspired PHIPPS’ latest collection, Weird Americana, a swaggering, sexy take on archetypal western wear, including denim with leather chaps, plaid boxer shorts, ribbed tank tops worthy of a desert ranch hand, tough-wearing shirting, studded trucker jackets, fleece pullovers, and camouflage thermals. Additionally, the line features Phipps’ ongoing collaboration with Woolrich using upcycled textiles, which gives everything a lived-in, life-on-the-frontier energy. Yee-haw. phipps.international. M.B.
Phar Out
Hip-hop impresario Pharrell Williams’ biggest fashion news of late may be his role as creative director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, but don’t let that overshadow his impressive collaboration with MONCLER, known for its streamlined and supremely stylish padded winter coats. Williams’ collection for the Italian brand’s Genius line is a utilitarian-minded homage to the great outdoors. Most of the items are made from weather-resistant technical fabrics and designed with functionality in mind — like convertible pants that zip off to shorts, jackets that turn into vests, and blankets that can be worn as ponchos. The offering is rounded out with ribbed sweaters, cargo pants, and bucket hats. Go take a hike? Definitely yes. moncler.com. M.B.
Land of Luxury
The so-called atelier of dreams at HERMÈS, led by creative director Axel de Beaufort and a team of visionary artisans, engineers, and designers tasked with creating the most unique objects imaginable, is touching down at the South Coast Plaza. The on-site pop-up introducing Sur-Mesure’s world of unique skateboards, paddle boards, pool tables, jukeboxes, DJ booths, and even customized interiors of vintage and new cars gives new meaning to the term bespoke. Also in Costa Mesa, Paris-based leather maker BERLUTI’s newly relocated boutique is filled with its impeccable shoe designs and a fall collection revolving around four chapters of staples combining sprezzatura, advanced craftsmanship, and sportswear. Hermès, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-437-1725; hermes.com. Berluti, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-641-3582; berluti.com. E.V.
Perfect Scents
“For centuries, aromas and spices have imbued the daily, private and official lives of many ancient peoples,” says Italian designer BRUNELLO CUCINELLI. “They viewed them as an integral aspect of beauty and culture.” Inspired by the rich history and diverse scents of the Umbrian countryside, Cucinelli debuts his first fragrances. Brunello Cucinelli Pour Homme’s key ingredient is the essence of cypress, combined with juniper, angelica, black pepper, ginger, and Calabrian bergamot, enhanced with a soft hint of patchouli and amber. There’s also a women’s scent with chestnut essence at its heart. Created in Solomeo, a 14th-century hamlet in Umbria where his company is headquartered, Cucinelli puts it all in perspective when he says, “a touch of perfume is like a caress.” $210. shop.brunellocucinelli.com. K.A.
Make Mine a Momoa
It should come as a surprise to absolutely no one that Jason Momoa is a big fan of the motorcycle — HARLEY-DAVIDSON, to be exact. First, there’s the fact that the six-foot-four-inch Hawaiian actor posts about riding frequently and enthusiastically, but motorcycles just seem like exactly the sort of thing the long-haired, tattooed musician and jiu-jitsu practitioner would be very, very into. Indeed, Aquaman loves riding his Harley so much that he’s worked on a line of devastatingly cool clothes that evoke the likes of James Dean and Marlon Brando from their bad-boy heydays. The On the Roam collection consists of easy, laid-back workwear-inspired pieces like hoodies, broken-in T-shirts, canvas cargos, tank tops, and Henleys in a palette of muted neutrals and earth tones and durable yet comfortable fabrics. Each item has a badass versatility — you could easily picture yourself wearing it on a back of a hog while cruising up PCH. harley-davidson.com. M.B.
Suitably Suave
The reports of the death of the suit have been greatly exaggerated — savvy shoppers still gravitate toward it, even after the pandemic. LOUIS VUITTON is all too aware, and the brand has released a collection of subtle, sensual tailoring attuned to the realities of a world in the thrall of quiet luxury. This new collection, dubbed “LV New Formal,” is filled with details that must be seen up close and in person to be truly appreciated: single button jackets with straight-leg trousers in subtle hues of charcoal and navy and patterns that play on boardroom tradition (tone-on-tone stripes) and the brand’s own legacy (a playful jacquard riff on the signature damier ébène motif, most commonly found on their leather bags). Talk about a power suit. louisvuitton.com. M.B.
This story originally appeared in the Men’s Fall 2023 issue of C Magazine.
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