For his latest restaurant, chef Jeremy Fox returns to his midwestern roots, putting elevated spins on his favorite comfort foods
Words by S. IRENE VIRBILA
Beloved for his bold, eclectic cooking, Jeremy Fox has just opened Birdie G’s — his first-ever project from scratch — under the Rustic Canyon group umbrella. While his early career took him in a fine dining direction (he earned a Michelin star at Napa’s Ubuntu), here he serves a menu reflective of his midwestern childhood and his grandmother’s farmhouse kitchen.
“I have no desire to be cool or stylish. I want Birdie G’s to feel like a place that’s been around forever,” Fox says. The 150-seat restaurant at Santa Monica’s Bergamot Station arts complex features an open kitchen with a wood-fired grill, an intimate bar with booths and an outdoor terrace.
True to Fox’s vision, offerings are nostalgic, with a twist: the tongue pot roast he loved as a kid and a relish plate with an irresistible five-onion creme fraiche dip. Fox’s personal favorites: sloppy Joes, matzo ball soup or crisp oval kasha cakes along with a hearty tripe and chickpea stew and a subtle lamb with Persian spices. He’s even enlisted ex-wife Deanie Hickox, who worked with him at Manresa, to consult on the desserts, including a dreamy rose petal pie with a pretzel crust.
2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310-310-3616.
Feature image: Potato waffles with caviar at BIRDIE G’S. Photo by Jim Sullivan.