Style Files: Jacquemus and Veronica Beard Arrive in Montecito

Plus Rick Owens and Moncler go hiking in the urban fringes

Words by MAX BERLINGER, REBECCA RUSSELL, and ELIZABETH VARNELL

Jacquemus Adds a Riviera Boutique
Simon Porte JACQUEMUS, born and raised in the South of France, has opened a sun-drenched seasonal boutique for his eponymous label in coastal Montecito. His second California shop, in the Rosewood Miramar Beach hotel, stocks bags (including the new Valérie top-handle, Rond Carré clutches, Bambola carryalls, and Bisou shoulder bags), plus ready-to-wear and surrealist shoes ideal for an evening out or trainers for strolling along Santa Barbara’s beachside. A collection of enveloping wool scarves for the morning marine layer is here, alongside airy fitting rooms with billowing drapes evoking poolside cabanas paired with herringbone-patterned terra-cotta brick floors. Provençal stripes appear on chairs and patio furniture, and crashing waves in the distance are transportive. 1759 S. Jameson Ln., Montecito, Rosewood Miramar Beach, 805-961-2360; jacquemus.com. E.V.

Revolve and FWRD Are Again Reinventing Retail
Online shopping mainstays REVOLVE and FWRD have permanently settled in a two-story emporium at The Grove in L.A., their city of origin. At the center of the immersive environment is a sculptural spiral staircase designed by Swiss American architect David Montalba. Downstairs are lines carried by Revolve, including apparel, footwear, lifestyle accessories, and an expanded men’s selection. Upstairs is an intimate boutique dedicated to FWRD designer collections with a space for circularity with FWRD Renew housing authenticated pre-owned handbags from heritage brands. 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 562-677-9469; fwrd.com; revolve.com. E.V.

Rick Owens and Moncler Share Their Trail Mix
As the balmy months approach, RICK OWENS has made a capsule — in collaboration with MONCLER — meant for the urban fringes, where cities transform into wilder landscapes and nature creeps in. Kilt shorts and figure-hugging asymmetric jersey skirts pair with Trailgrip Megalace sneakers, all of which take inspiration from the collision of Berlin’s brutalist architecture with the bucolic greenery of the German countryside. Owens calls this confluence “brucolic,” and his palette merges black, dust, and olive tones with carnelian red, using geocamo quilting and embroidery derivative of concrete facades as well as lightweight leather and nylon for the jackets and windbreakers. Tall hiking socks, bucket hats, and waist bags are here, as are pants, T-shirts, hoodies, and light puffers ready for rainy summer streets and wooded tree-lined trails. 819 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323-931-4960; rickowens.eu; moncler.com. E.V.

ASU FIDM’s Museum Mounts a Nineties Revival
This spring, guests at ASU FIDM MUSEUM are invited to travel back to the rebellious 1990s with Obsessed: Fashion and Nostalgia in the ‘90s. All the designers represented in the show have their identities firmly rooted in the era that embraced individuality, like Jean Paul Gaultier, Gianni Versace, Vivienne Westwood, and Anna Sui. Through June 27. 919 S. Grand Ave., L.A., 213-510-6964; asufidmmuseum.asu.edu. R.R.

Alanui’s Cardigans Take an Armani-Influenced Turn
GIORGIO ARMANI’s sensual minimalism and the haute-hippie allure of ALANUI may appear to be at odds, but the two brands found common ground on this piece with undeniable bohemian flair. Founded in 2016 by siblings Carlotta Oddi and Nicolò Oddi, Alanui built its reputation on the idea of the journey — a Hawaiian term for a long, meaningful voyage. Here, that seeking is distilled into a shawl-collar cardigan edged with a dense fringe and cinched with a knotted tie-belt, equal parts nomadic and nonchalant. But this is Armani’s terrain, too, and the house subtly asserts itself. The knit is reworked with an abstract jacquard of rhythmic stripes in shades of Armani’s signature blue: inky sky, robin’s egg, and amethyst. The result reads something like taking your private jet to Burning Man. alanui.it; armani.com. M.B.

Thom Browne and Asics Merge Tailoring With Speed
At last THOM BROWNE is decisively weighing in on suit-and-sneakers pairings. His best-of-both-worlds fever dream is a collaboration with ASICS Sportstyle, reinterpreting the revered Japanese footwear maker’s Gel-Kayano 14 with considered finishes, including suede or smooth leather, piping, and cross-stitch finishing. Muted gray editions sport tonal grosgrain; black versions use red, white, and blue ribbon for lace catchers — all nodding to aspects of the designer’s sport-infused wardrobe staples. Browne, a varsity swimmer and distance runner, intertwines precise tailoring and athletic stripes throughout his line, but here he is free to embrace the breathable, performance-driven aspects of the sneaker, including mesh uppers and an updated insole with dual branding from his New York atelier and the Kobe outfitter. Each pair comes with two sets of laces: one two-toned and one with red, white, and blue finishing. Whether they cross a marathon finish line or the threshold of a C-suite is up to you. 8408 Melrose Pl., L.A., 213-357-0420; 3333 Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-410-8485; 432 Jackson St., S.F., 415-655-3618; thombrowne.com. E.V.

Louis Vuitton’s Pioneering Monogram Marks a Milestone
Emblematic canvas exteriors with a motif rooted in Gothic art and Japonism interlacing two initials and a floral design — meant to safeguard the authenticity of LOUIS VUITTON creations — distinguishes Keepall, Speedy, Alma, and Neverfull bags, plus Noé models designed to carry five bottles of Champagne. Walk through an airport, a train station, or any transportation hub and it’s impossible to miss glimpsing Georges Vuitton’s tribute to his father, first created in 1896. The emblem even inspired collaborations with Yayoi Kusama, Richard Prince, and Takashi Murakami over the past few decades. Now in its 130th year, new canvases are emerging, including a linen and cotton blend with a soft pastel palette for the Monogram Origine collection, VVN pieces crafted from natural cowhide and meant to develop a patina over time, and Time Trunks distinguished by trompe-l’oeil printing mimicking textures and details from the house’s historic offerings. Taking a page from heritage designs, these new additions clearly display their provenance. louisvuitton.com. E.V.

Roger Vivier’s Animal Magic Returns
Archival codes from the fantastical imagination of ROGER VIVIER loom large this spring as the house, under the creative direction of Gherardo Felloni, reinterprets leopard, tiger, zebra, and giraffe motifs in a series of expressive one-off handbags. The Atelier Animalier collection of Efflorescence Jewel bags includes 11 handmade designs incorporating semiprecious stones, feathers, embroidery, crystals, and paint — to wild effect. From the black and royal blue look of a nocturnal zebra to a hint of the distinctive African equines rendered in pink-and-white strass, each piece is devised with a couture sensibility requiring days of craftsmanship, multiple stages of embroidery, application of fringe, and the poetic use of color. A new monograph out this spring, Roger Vivier: Heritage and Imagination (Rizzoli, $95), charts his endless creativity and influence on 20th-century design. 3333 Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-435-0015; rogervivier.com. E.V.

Veronica Beard’s Newest Coastal Perch
Sisters-in-law Veronica Swanson Beard and Veronica Miele Beard are bringing their jointly named line to Montecito. The warmly toned space with braided raffia wallpaper and terra-cotta floors contains an octagonal vintage McGuire table, a skirted two-tone linen sofa with velvet cushions, and a vintage wooden console stocked with VERONICA BEARD straight leg, slim, embellished, or wide-leg denim. The Veronicas have jointly become masterminds of tailored suiting, easy tweed jackets, maxi dresses, and clutches like the Stash bags with a cinchable top. There are also Penrose sneakers, a Riviera Mesh style, and a sporty Valentina model for walking along the cliffs, as well as loafers, flats, sandals, and all manner of heels for dinners in town. 1269 Coast Village Rd., Montecito, 805-322-0530; veronicabeard.com. E.V.

Dover Street Market’s Latest Fit Check
The brainchild of Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe and home to Comme des Garçons, DOVER STREET MARKET, is launching a private label collection helmed by Noir’s Kei Ninomiya, with other creators and projects envisioned for seasons ahead. Ninomiya, known for his intricately gathered avant-garde designs, is paring back his aesthetic for the launch of DSM label. He’s created separates for women and men, a mix of branded team gear that’s chic, yet also less radical and designed for daily use. There are letterman sweaters and vests, striped sweats, skirts, ties, blazers with hoodies, roomy overalls and other wardrobe building blocks with unique silhouettes that are anything but basic. The idea is to build on the mix carried at the six worldwide boutiques, filling out various essential categories with staples from visionaries. 608 Imperial St., L.A., 310-427-7610; losangeles.doverstreetmarket.com. E.V.