Plus Kate Moss collaborates with Messika Paris and Cartier, Tiffany & Co. give their stores an upgrade
Words by ELIZABETH VARNELL
Louis Vuitton’s Monogram is in Urs Fischer’s hands
Artist Urs Fischer’s penchant for irreverently reinterpreting everyday objects (giant cigarette boxes) or people (life-size wax candle sculptures) generally begs the question of where his gaze will fall next. This winter, he’s taking on Louis Vuitton’s logo. The Swiss artist, who splits his time between his Solano Canyon house and New York studio, devised a whimsical version of the monogram that began as a freehand sketch, morphing Georges Vuitton’s 1896 pattern — flowers and all — into floating motifs with puffy shapes that appear on bags, shoes and apparel. The letters and blooms even seem to move like clouds across canvas, enlivened by the house’s inventive tuffetage application technique. Fischer’s black-and-red or black-and-white designs embellish seven special-edition bags — including the Cabas, Speedy and Keepall — jackets, sneakers, shawls, a T-shirt, dress and a beauty case. A silk LV + UF square even references the silicone banana from Fischer’s 2019 Artycapucines bag for the brand, but this time there’s a cat sleeping inside the peel, among a menagerie of other creatures and produce.
A New Cartier Treasure Trove
The sweeping curves and natural hues of California’s coastline inform the interiors of Cartier’s expansive new San Diego boutique. Inspired by the city’s cultural tapestry, from the colored tiles at Spanish Village Art Center to the crashing blue ocean waves below the Torrey Pines cliffs, the sun-drenched, 4,348-square-foot space designed by Paris-based architecture firm Bidard & Raissi draws on the airy vastness of the region’s open spaces. Men’s and women’s watch and jewelry salons, and dedicated diamonds and VIPs salons are all tucked inside, each space defined by site-specific works as exacting as the storied house’s baubles and timepieces, including the Pasha, Cartier’s newest timepiece revival. Exclusive to the new boutique are blue leather watch straps meant to complement select women’s and men’s Ballon Bleu, Santos de Cartier, and Pasha de Cartier watches. Strap linings reveal a bespoke image of the ubiquitous panther surrounded by the Spanish Colonial Revival architecture of Balboa Park. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Rd., San Diego, 619-684-6951.
Fendi Ski Wear Gets Technical
Whether there’s fresh powder on the slopes or snowshoeing is afoot, getting outdoors is key to navigating this particular winter. And now Fendi Tech, a new collection from the Roman maison incorporating innovative regenerated nylon yarns, is making each trek outside even more appealing. Fendi’s Leopaisley print from the fall runway — whimsically combining leopard spots and paisley designs — amps up jackets with shearling collars, gloves and even technical underpinnings made of eco lycra. For men, yellow and black jackets, ski pants, overalls and intarsia sweaters are splashed in the house’s famed FF logo, created by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965. Naturally there are FF skis, the result of a limited-edition pairing with Austrian ski maker Blizzard, plus ski leggings, jackets, helmets, goggles and gloves, not to mention a genius collaboration with Moonboot on lace-up FF boots and a sportier version made with yellow grosgrain ribbons. It may be cold outside, but venturing out into the snow just got much more appealing.
Messika Paris Taps Kate Moss for an Exclusive Collection
Kate Moss takes collaborations very seriously. Her latest foray, Messika Paris by Kate Moss, is the British model’s first high jewelry collection, and, true to form, she turned up with a bauble box in hand at her first design meeting with Valérie Messika. To design the nine-set collection comprising 100 original pieces, the two creatives shuttled between their respective Paris and London offices and Moss’ house, before crafting lariat necklaces, climbing asymmetrical earrings, angular three-finger rings and even a delicate headpiece, awash in diamonds, mother-of-pearl, malachite and turquoise, set in yellow or white gold. Each design’s inevitable insouciant twist is an ode to Moss’ unique mastery of high-low style. Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310-772-0988.
M1017 ALYX 9SM Adapts Organic Shapes for Moncler Genius
A puffer is a puffer is a puffer until Matthew Williams gets his hands on it. The Pismo Beach-raised designer currently helming Givenchy in addition to his M1017 ALYX 9SM label, is manipulating the winter staple into layered sculptures in partnership with Moncler. Williams’ turn at the Milan house’s Genius collection — sparking a foray into garment dyeing research — is based on a neutral palette of organic fabrics treated to become technical, some shiny, some matte. Jackets with leg-of-mutton sleeves and exterior vests pair with articulated leggings or trousers. Cropped coats and zip-up trenches, rubber boots, garment-dyed belts, T-shirts and hoodies, plus nylon harnesses and wraparound sunglasses round out the collection. Tights and tops are made from regenerated nylon and there are jacket designs with a snow-colored dust coating embellished by Swarovski triggering a camouflage effect on the slopes. Williams, known for devising distinctive buckles (he’s researched Six Flags seatbelts for previous collections) also created neck and rib cage clasps for his puffers. Shed the puffer and buckle it at the hips for an alpine peplum.
Dior High Jewelry Takes On the Tie-Dye Trend
Hypnotic tie-dye electrified Dior’s savoir faire this past fall. It even inspired Tie & Dior, the house’s new 100-plus-piece high jewelry collection. The resulting earrings, rings, bracelets, necklaces and timepieces feature intensely hued sapphires, garnets, diamonds, tourmalines and rubies. 185 Post St. S.F., 415-398-2204; 309 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-859-4700; 3333 S. Bristol St., South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa, 714-549-4700.
Welcoming Pomellato’s Debut High Jewelry Range
Milanese jewelry house Pomellato is amplifying its most revered designs by swapping in rare diamonds and vibrant peridots, garnets and other gemstones. La Gioia di Pomellato, the house’s first high jewelry collection features an oval-shaped pink gold Iconica choker — an unabashedly minimalist shape — awash in a pavé of 1,706 white diamonds requiring over 226 hours to create. 214 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, 310-550-5639.
Tiffany & Co.’s Love Letter to California
This winter, American jeweler Tiffany & Co. is recommitting to California. By reopening two of its 18 statewide boutiques (after relocating each, and expanding and redesigning the interiors), chief artistic officer Reed Krakoff proves every good relationship needs room to grow. In Costa Mesa, 12,000 square feet of cut glass, fluted wood and carved stone exclusively houses new T1 collection bangles and rings alongside a Blue Box Cafe, the first West Coast outpost for breakfast (also lunch and tea) at Tiffany’s. In Santa Clara, Extraordinary Tiffany high jewelry designs join registered diamonds, each with a fully traceable provenance, in the reworked 5,360-square-foot shop’s marble, glass and steel galleries. South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714-540-5330; Westfield Valley Fair, 2855 Stevens Creek Blvd., Santa Clara, 408-243-7771.
Jan. 13, 2021
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